Pilgrim testimonials

“A Camino that time did not erase.” This was the first phrase I heard about the Camino da Geira e dos Arrieiros. It was during the presentation of Luis Ferreira’s book with this title. After reading it, I knew: this would be my next Camino. After doing some research, with a list of stages and hostels in my pocket, I left Braga on 1 October 2024.

I set off alone, even though I had been advised against it. I think I went too late in the year, because out of ten stages I had nine days of rain, including a major storm in Codeseda, and only one sunny day. Despite many difficulties and setbacks, this Camino planted a seed in me. The nature, the people I met, the support of kind-hearted hospitaleros…

I will not mention names, because there are many. All of this made me experience a short Camino, 239 km, but a very intense one. I arrived in Santiago de Compostela on my birthday. There could have been no better gift.

It was good.
It was too little.
I wanted more.
There was still something left to discover…

The following year, in 2025, I wanted to return in summer to avoid the rain. However, the wildfires came and I adapted my plans. I walked the Camino Inglés, but I had to return to the Geira.

So I returned again this year. I left Salamanca on 1 May 2026 along the Camino de Torres and, when I reached Braga, I continued once again on the CGA. I would like to point out that I do not attach too much importance to the “odometer”. I moved beyond that stage a long time ago. Nor do I count the number of Caminos I have walked. In my view, that is not what matters most for a pilgrim.

What matters to me are the values I find —or do not find— during and thanks to the Camino. The Camino da Geira e dos Arrieiros remains my “Pearl” among the Caminos. I hope that this feeling, which accompanied me from the first stage to the last, will not fade. Once again, I am grateful to all the people I met who make this Camino what it is.

I think I will return one day…

To everyone walking it now and to future pilgrims, I wish you a Buen Camino.

Fátima Rodrigues
🇵🇹 Portugal

The Geira, a Camino to be felt…
Much is said and debated about the Caminos to Santiago. Every pilgrim speaks from their own unique and personal experience, which is as authentic and true as that of any other pilgrim.
The Caminos to Santiago have evolved and changed according to the needs of pilgrims themselves and the motivations that lead them to embark on this human experience. I was fortunate enough to experience and live the Camino in all its facets, walking my own experience as well as experiencing the pilgrims’ journey from the perspective of a hospitalero.
From the moment we took our first step on the Geira, our minds and hearts went back to that Camino Primitivo of 20 years ago. A Camino of breathtaking beauty, silent because of the absence of crowds, demanding because of its gradients and the lack of services on some stretches.”

“These emerging Caminos require a great acceptance of that demanding nature, but they are extraordinarily generous in the hospitality and humanity of their people. People who are curious to see pilgrims passing through their villages and ready to help at any moment, something that is harder to find on crowded Caminos.
That same overcrowding takes privacy away from the inhabitants of the villages crossed by the Camino, leaving ghost villages in our wake.
Pilgrim, every Camino gives you something. The Geira will offer you fewer material comforts, but it will fill your heart and your backpack with values and humanity.
So, if you decide to venture along its trails, leave your fears behind, walk slowly —you always arrive; the Camino does not close at 2 p.m., it is open all day— and keep your senses alert, because the important things on the Camino are not seen with the eyes; they are experienced with the heart. Help others, share and show respect. Feel all the history and emotion beneath your feet, left there by the millions of pilgrims who passed before you, and feel fortunate to be there with every step.
May God bless you and may Saint James guide your steps.
Ultreia!!!”

David Carricondo and Celia
🇪🇸 Spain

The CGA is for people who do not enjoy crowds, for those who value tranquillity and the beauty of nature. For people who are open to change and unexpected situations; who are not afraid of finding themselves in isolated places, can manage without knowing the language, can tolerate a certain amount of discomfort and have a slightly larger budget.
For both of us, the most beautiful section was the third stage: from Campo do Gerês to Lobios. In fact, every section was beautiful: the “lunar” landscape, the remains of Roman roads, the milestones recalling the ancient emperors of the Roman Empire, paths beside rivers or through vineyards, villages —“deserted” only at first glance, but full of life—, the scent of eucalyptus trees —for me, that is the smell of the Camino—, birdsong and crickets, not forgetting the cows, sheep and horses.
But everywhere, what truly matters is the PEOPLE.
Someone who does not know the Camino might say, “it is no big deal” and… they would be wrong. Because the Camino shows that small things can become immense; that a can of soft drink becomes the nectar of the gods, a supermarket muffin deserves a Michelin star, and clothes that someone else has washed for you become royal attire.
We remember them all and give thanks to the One Above.
The CGA is certainly not filled with a lively, multilingual crowd heading towards Santiago de Compostela. There are no large hostels and, in some places, there are no hostels at all. Nor will you find somewhere every kilometre to buy food or drink; you may spend an entire day without having a coffee if you do not happen to arrive during a bar or café’s opening hours.
Its main drawback is the waymarking, which is very poor or even non-existent. Without Wikiloc or a similar app, there is little point in setting out on this route.
On the other hand, it offers beautiful landscapes, the chance to test your limits, time to reflect on many things, to learn to value small gestures and the smile of a fellow traveller and, above all, to realise once again how great and loving God is.
I do not think it is the most suitable Camino as a first Camino, but it can be a good second one, as it was for my husband. He wants to walk the CGA again. I said no, but the more time passes since our arrival in Santiago de Compostela, the weaker my “no” becomes, so perhaps I will return and do it according to the Camino code: walking, following the track and carrying my backpack.
For now, I am trying to persuade a friend to walk the CGA.
Despite the difficult experiences, I am glad this Camino exists and I hope more and more people discover it, because it really is worthwhile.

Anna Zdunek
🇵🇱 Poland

The Camino da Geira is not an easy Camino.
It is a Camino that has to be earned.
The climbs here are not gentle. They are long, constant and, at times, relentless.
The terrain is often uneven: Roman stones worn by time, slippery woodland paths, isolated stretches where mobile phone reception disappears and you are left alone with your breathing.
When it rains —and it can rain heavily—, the mud slows every step.
The descents test your knees.
The stages can be long, and places to obtain food and supplies are not always as close together as on busier Caminos.
You need physical preparation.
You need to train your legs and back.
You need a backpack containing the essentials, but well organised.
You need the ability to adapt.
But, above all… you need determination.
Because this Camino does not support you with a crowd.
It does not encourage you with noise.
It brings you face to face with yourself.
And it is precisely through the effort that something profound happens: when you think you are about to slow down, you discover a strength you did not know you had.
When you feel alone, you learn to listen to yourself.
When your body is tired, your soul becomes clearer.
The Camino da Geira is for those who accept its toughness.
For those who do not look for shortcuts.
For those who want to feel every step.
It is not the most comfortable Camino.
And in the end, you understand that the effort was not an obstacle.
It was the door.

Gaetano Puca
🇮🇹 Italy

Walking the Camino da Geira e dos Arrieiros was an experience I will carry with me forever. The natural beauty of the landscapes, with their mountains, forests, rivers and waterfalls, and the silence of so many places made every stage an encounter with myself and with the essence of the Camino. It was a demanding journey, with a challenging route that tested my limits but gave me an immense sense of achievement.

Walking this route is also a journey through time, following the remains of the ancient Roman road that linked Braga with Astorga. Feeling history present in the stones and paths that have endured for centuries made this pilgrimage even more special.

But if there is one thing I will remember with particular affection, it is the extraordinary hospitality of the hospitaleros I met along the Camino. The generosity, welcome and care shown by each of them were essential in making the moments of tiredness and difficulty easier to bear. To all of them, I offer my most sincere thanks for every gesture of kindness and for making me feel truly welcome.
I return with a heart full of gratitude, carrying with me the landscapes, the history, the challenges and, above all, the people who were part of this Camino. To pilgrims who do not yet know this route, I invite you to walk it. Despite the demanding nature of the route, it is a unique, authentic and deeply enriching experience that deserves to be lived and remembered.

Kerjean Lopes
🇧🇷 Brazil

I recently walked the Caminho de Santiago Geira e dos Arrieiros and had a fantastic experience. Spending days immersed in the stunning landscapes of Portugal and Galicia, with the trails virtually all to myself, was simply incredible. The solitude, natural beauty, and sense of remoteness made this a truly memorable journey.

For those considering this route, it is important to understand that it is a demanding undertaking, requiring serious physical and mental preparation. Multiple days of hiking 25 kilometers or more, often involving eight to ten hours on the trail with significant elevation gains and descents, are not for the casual walker. One must also be comfortable spending long hours in relative isolation, often through remote wooded areas.

Personally, I found this solitude to be one of the greatest gifts of the journey. The absence of cars, planes, and even other pilgrims created a profound sense of peace that is increasingly difficult to find.

Amenities along the route are limited, making self-sufficiency essential. Carrying adequate food and water is important, as is proficiency with GPS navigation applications such as Wikiloc, given that long stretches of the path are unmarked.

For those seeking a unique Caminho experience, far removed from the crowds and more tourist-oriented routes, few alternatives can rival the Geira e dos Arrieiros for its extraordinary beauty, physical challenges, and spiritual rewards.

Bom Caminho!

Brian Robinson
🇺🇸 USA